Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

The holiday season simply wouldn't be the same without having a little something sweet on the table.  This year we tried a pineapple upside-down cake using Martha Stewart's yellow cake, and it was absolutely delicious.  Pineapple upside-down cake is such an easy cake to make, and with its decorative layer of golden pineapple and caramel, it's an impressive and beautiful addition to any table.  But let me offer a word of caution -- this is possibly the best pineapple upside-down cake I've ever had.  It's truly irresistible.  Bake at your own risk!

The Topping:

• 1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp light brown sugar
• 5 Tbsp butter (room temperature)
• 1 Tbsp maple syrup
• 1 tsp dark rum (optional)
• 1/4 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 20 oz can of pineapple slices in juice, drained

Directions:

1. Butter and lightly flour an 8 inch cake pan.  Set aside.
2. In a medium bowl, cream butter and sugar by hand.
3. Add rum, maple syrup, and vanilla.  Blend with mixer until creamy.
4. Split the mixture into 4 or 5 equal portions, and drop each portion into the cake pan, evenly spaced.  Spread evenly with a spatula.  The topping should be about 1/4 inch deep.
5. Place pineapple slices on the sugar mixture in a decorative fashion.  Cover as much surface area as possible with pineapple.  Set aside while you make the cake batter.

Cake Batter:

• 3/4 cup all purpose flour
• 3/4 cup cake flour
• 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1 stick of butter (room temperature)
• 3/4 cup + 2 Tbsp sugar
• 2 eggs (room temperature)
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp milk (room temperature)

Directions:

1. In a medium bowl, sift together flours and baking powder.  Set aside.
2. In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar using a mixer.
3. Add eggs, one at a time; beat well after adding each egg to combine.
4. Add vanilla; mix.
5. Add a third of the flour mixture, mix, alternating with a third of the milk, mix well.  Repeat until all of the flour and milk is well incorporated.  Be careful not to over-beat the mixture.  
6. Add the batter to the cake pan.
7. Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit, about 50 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out with a few moist crumbs attached.  The cake will be golden brown on top.
8. Let the cake cool in the pan, resting on a wire rack, for 30 minutes before running a small sharp knife around the edge of the pan to release the cake.  Place a plate on top of the cake pan and invert the cake quickly onto the plate; serve.

 

Eating this cake when it's still slightly warm is quite a treat.  The caramel sauce is divine, and when it cools it creates a delicate caramel crackle around the edge.  The cake is rich, but not too dense, and it has a slight sweetness to it.  Moreover, the cake-to-pineapple ratio is just right.  If well covered and stored in a cool dry place, the cake will stay moist for several days, that is, if it's even around this long.  It really is irresistible. 

The Giving Tree: Mulled Wine for the Over-Heated

Who doesn't like a good holiday cocktail, especially one that starts with red wine? This year the NY Times published a number of new holiday cocktail recipes developed by mixologists from around the country. I have yet to try them all, but so far this one is my favorite: The Giving Tree. Its creator says that it is a twist on the quintessential holiday treat, mulled wine. Unlike it's tasty cousin, this cocktail is served cold. Yes, that's right, cold. But fear not, if your initial response to the idea of cold mulled wine is that it's a humbug, no worries, you'll warm up in no time with this cocktail, because it really packs a punch. Below is my version of The Giving Tree, which I think may be just a tad bit better than the original.

Ingredients:

• 2 ounce red wine (cabernet, zinfandel, or similarly bold red)
• 1 ounce Drambuie
• 1 ounce spiced rum
• 2 dashes Old Fashioned Aromatic Bitters (optional) 

Directions:

1. Chill your glass by filling with ice or placing in freezer for 5 minutes.
2. In a metal shaker, combine all ingredients and half-fill with ice. Stir until chilled, about 30 seconds, and strain into chilled glass. 

The spiced rum and bitters add a mild herbal/spiced quality that one expects in a mulled wine; the Drambuie heightens this, while bringing a bit more sweetness to round things out. This cocktail is pretty strong, so it's best served in moderation and amongst the warmth of good friends. Cheers!

UPDATE: For an even easier, no-fuss cocktail, mix 3 parts wine to 1 part Drambuie, add a dash of cinnamon and a dash nutmeg. Serve, rocks optional. 
 

Green Beans with Shallots and Thyme

A few years ago I celebrated my birthday at a lovely little restaurant in Boston called Ten Tables. As the name suggests, they only have ten tables in the whole place, and I assume this is part of what accounted for their exceptional attention to detail. Every dish I had that night was amazing, but of all the dishes I remember the green beans the best. This is probably because these beans changed forever the way I make green beans. The recipe below is a very close approximation to the original transformative side dish.

Ingredients:

• 3/4 pounds green beans, trimmed and cut into 1 inch pieces
• 2 medium shallots, diced
• 1 1/2 tablespoons butter
• 4 springs of fresh thyme
• salt to taste
• fresh parsley (optional)

Directions:

1. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and cook until browned.
2. Add green beans and thyme leaves to the pan. Season with salt. Cook covered on medium-low heat for about 7 to 10 minutes until the beans reach the desired tenderness. They should be somewhat al dente.
3. Garnish with a bit of fresh parsley before serving.

The simplicity of this dish is its beauty. The shallots lend a delightful sweetness, and the thyme and parsley a bit of freshness. Enjoy!

Orange Braised Chicken Thighs with Green Olives

I've been making this dish for a few years now. It's simple and easy to prepare, with a great return on flavor. I made some slight modifications to the original recipe, which appeared in Gourmet magazine in 1995 (and later on epicurious.com).

Ingredients:

• 4 chicken thighs with skin
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 3 or 4 large garlic cloves, minced
• 1 medium onion, sliced thin
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon dry thyme
• 1 cup fresh orange juice
• 1 fresh lemon, juiced
• 1/2 cup green olives, cut in quarters
• 1 cup chicken stock (optional)

Directions:

1. Rinse chicken and pat dry. Season chicken with salt and pepper. In a heavy skillet heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and brown chicken, transferring as browned to a plate.
2. Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon fat from pan. Reduce heat to moderate and in skillet cook onion, stirring, until pale golden. Add garlic just as onions begin to brown stirring, until golden.
3. Stir in cumin, citrus juices, and salt and pepper to taste and add chicken and olives. 
4. Simmer chicken, covered, 25 minutes, or until tender. Turn the chicken after 15 minute.
5. Remove chicken and reduce sauce by about 1/3.  Taste the sauce and adjust if it needs more juice (lemon or orange). If the sauce becomes too thick, chicken stock can be used to thin it out.

The sauce is slightly briny and deliciously rich with a mildly sweet flavor from the orange and lemon juices, balanced by an earthiness that the cumin and garlic provide. It can get a bit too salty however if you add extra olives, so try not to go overboard. And while I'm on the topic of olives, it's important to use quality olives with good flavor (canned will not do here, but that goes without saying) because the olives create the base of the sauce and if their flavor isn't appealing the whole dish will be off.

Pairings:

Serve with Turmeric Rice with Raisins or even some plain white rice. For a vegetable try Roasted Cauliflower with a little drizzle of lemon or Green Beans with Shallots and Thyme. And of course a nice dry white wine would work nicely here as well.

If more sauce is needed for leftovers (should you even have any) prepare a mix of orange juice (2/3 cup), chicken stock (2/3 cup), cumin (1/2 teaspoon), thyme (1/4 teaspoon), and chopped olives (1/4 cup); heat until reduced by about half.

Enjoy!

Season's Greetings

NYC has already experienced a few snow storms this season, but luckily they haven't amounted to much. Still, the falling snow has proved to be quite beautiful, providing scenes such as this. Season's Greetings!

Fish and Rose: A taste of the Vineyard in NYC

Longing for a taste of home, I was so pleased to hear that a new pop-up restaurant was making its debut in the city. The folks from the Martha's Vineyard-based, family-owned Beetlebung Farm have brought their farm-fresh veggies, meats, oysters, and more to thrill and delight us until Dec 30th. The pop-up is being held in the old Bowery St. subway station -- a remodeled space that is both charming and inviting.

Opening night at the Fish and Rose was quite a treat, even more so since we were there for a late night seating, which avoided the crowds and created a more intimate experience. Beetlebung Farm is known for hosting private parties in which guests get to mingle with the chef as well as his celebrity friends. And this night was no exception, but the real treat was the food. On the menu was an asian pear and feta salad, a succulent pan-seared pork chop with roasted beets and carrots, a side of roasted cauliflower and steamed kale, and honey pie for dessert. The highlight for me was the pan-seared pork chop, which was permeated with a hint of sweetness so divine that I had to restrain myself from the urge to chew on the bone right then and there in an effort to get at every last tasty morsel. This is what farm-fresh food is all about. I only hope I can visit them again before these transient culinary masters disappear into the fog, heading back to this magical place called The Vineyard.

Caramelized Pears

I was visiting family over Thanksgiving, the holiday that is all about good food. And so it's no surprise that we talked endlessly about good food, prepared good food, ate good food, dreamed about good food, and watched TV shows that showed us how to make even more good food. One evening we happened to see a show where the chef created a very simple and elegant dish of caramelized pears, so of course we made them the very next night, and they were amazing.

¼ cup butter (60 ml)

4 medium red and yellow Bartlett pears, pitted and quartered

½ cup brown sugar (125 ml)

2 tablespoons Bourbon (30 ml) (Optional)

Good quality ice cream to garnish

Read more at http://www.foodnetwork.ca/recipe/caramelized-pears/11587/#Sm4RBiC2hgwAGlSp.99

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup butter
• 4 medium Bartlett pears, pitted and quartered
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons Drambuie or Bourbon (optional)
• Vanilla ice cream, as a garnish

Directions:

1. In a large sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter and then add the pears, cut-side down; cook until slightly golden brown, about 5 minutes. 
2. Add brown sugar and continue cooking until caramelized, another 5 minutes. Add the Drambuie or Bourbon and continue for 5 more minutes.
3. Plate pears, garnish with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce.

You can modify the recipe depending on what's in season; I think this would be fantastic with apples, peaches, or even plums. Just be sure not to get the temperature too high (above 300 degrees F), as this will create a brittle rather than gooey caramel sauce.

All in all, these pears are the perfect holiday treat; they are easy, sophisticated, and delicious. There's no reason you shouldn't make them with your family to celebrate during the holiday season. Bon appétit!

¼ cup butter (60 ml)

4 medium red and yellow Bartlett pears, pitted and quartered

½ cup brown sugar (125 ml)

2 tablespoons Bourbon (30 ml) (Optional)

Good quality ice cream to garnish

Read more at http://www.foodnetwork.ca/recipe/caramelized-pears/11587/#Sm4RBiC2hgwAGlSp.99

¼ cup butter (60 ml)

4 medium red and yellow Bartlett pears, pitted and quartered

½ cup brown sugar (125 ml)

2 tablespoons Bourbon (30 ml) (Optional)

Good quality ice cream to garnish

Read more at http://www.foodnetwork.ca/recipe/caramelized-pears/11587/#Sm4RBiC2hgwAGlSp.99

¼ cup butter (60 ml)

4 medium red and yellow Bartlett pears, pitted and quartered

½ cup brown sugar (125 ml)

2 tablespoons Bourbon (30 ml) (Optional)

Good quality ice cream to garnish

Read more at http://www.foodnetwork.ca/recipe/caramelized-pears/11587/#Sm4RBiC2hgwAGlSp.99

Tuna Casserole

Sometimes you just want a classic, like tuna noodle casserole -- a familiar tried-and-true dish, guaranteed to satisfy your most serious comfort food cravings.   This particular recipe has been in my family for decades.  The base is a simple bechamel sauce, rather than canned soup.  And you won't find any peas, carrots, or corn in this recipe, nor is there any potato chip, cheesy topping.  Just onions and celery in the sauce, with a buttered breadcrumb topping.  Simple, elegant, and divine.  A classic.

Servings: 3-4

Ingredients:

• 1 stalk of celery, diced
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 1 1/2 tbsp + 1 tbsp butter
• 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 2 cups milk (1% is fine; skim works less well)
• Salt to taste
• 2 cups wide egg noodles
• 1 can tuna (chunk light, 5 oz), drained
• 1/2 cup bread crumbs

Directions:

      Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. 

1. Saute celery and onion in butter until softened in a small pan; set aside
2. In a medium sauce pan, cook flour in 1 1/2 tbsp butter until slightly golden (it will bubble slightly)
3. In a medium pot, boil water and cook noodles for about 6 minutes (or about 2 minutes less than the package instructions indicate); drain, and return to pot
4. Whisk milk into the flour mixture; cook until it begins to boil
5. Add the celery and onions, along with the drained tuna, to the flour/milk mixture; combine and continue cooking for a minute or two on low heat; salt to taste
6. Add the pasta to the tuna mixture; combine
7. Melt 1 tbsp butter in a small pan; combine with bread crumbs
8. Transfer pasta mixture to an 8x8 baking dish; top with buttered bread crumbs
9. Bake at 350 degrees F (covered) for 15-20 minutes until the sauce begins to bubble and the bread crumbs are golden.

There is certainly room for experimentation here (for example, I imagine sauteed mushrooms or capers might be a nice addition), but for me, this recipe is the way to go.  On a similar note, while the bread crumbs may seem (to some) to be optional, trust me, they will be missed if not included.

Drink: This dish pairs nicely with a light Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc.

Autumn in New York: Central Park

I realized too late that the peak of the fall foliage had come and gone before I was able to enjoy a long walk through Central Park, but autumn in the park is still quite a treat even if the trees are now slightly more bare.  Which is why I decided today to walk from the northwest corner to the southeast corner, just over 2.5 miles of beauty and fun.  

Central Park is ideal territory for people watching, and the sights and sounds can be absolutely heartwarming.  The day's mild weather (in the high 50s) encouraged many people to head out to enjoy a little nature, play sports, take in some sun, support runners who were completing the NYC 60K (that's 37.2 miles!), play/listen to a little live jazz, stroll with their families, sail model boats (a tradition that is over 135 years old), dance/roller skate to house music (with a live DJ), visit the zoo, listen to a live performance of Bach's cello suites, tour a castle, picnic, bird watch, listen to someone singing Puccini's "O mio babbino caro" and other arias, etc. etc. etc.  Who could ask for more?

 

Halloween Preparations

Seasonal and holiday decorations in the city do not disappoint.  Just look at all of the spooky creatures and goblins I met on my way to/from work. 

A happy and safe Halloween to all!

Pasta with Acorn Squash and Pancetta

I had a bit of roasted acorn squash left over from last night's dinner and I wanted to make something more substantial with it.  I stumbled across a recipe for Penne with Acorn Squash and Pancetta, which sounded perfect.  The recipe offers a basic outline that you can modify based on what you have in the kitchen.  Below is my riff on it.  

Ingredients:

1/2 roasted acorn squash (medium size)
1/3 lb penne, bow-tie, or wide pasta noodle (I used tagliatelle, since that's what I had on hand)
1/3 lb pancetta sliced 1/4-inch thick and diced, or 8 slices of bacon cut into 1 inch pieces (Don't skimp on the bacon, trust me, it's good stuff)
3 shallots, chopped (or 1 medium onion, or 4 cloves of garlic)
1/4 cup off-dry white wine, chicken broth, or vegetable stock  (A blend of wine and broth is good) 
1 tsp of fresh sage, rosemary, or thyme (I used thyme)
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 tsp olive oil, to coat the squash if it's not already roasted

Directions:

1. If you don't happen to have any leftover roasted acorn squash:  Seed a medium sized acorn squash and cut it into wedges, about 1/2-inch thick, coat with a little olive oil, and bake at 400 degrees F for about 30 minutes, turning once, until soft and slightly caramelized.
2. Allow the squash to cool slightly.  Boil some water for the pasta.  Cut the squash into 1 inch cubes, leaving the skin on.
3. In a medium enamel pot, cook the bacon/pancetta.
4. When the bacon is done, remove the pieces and cook shallots in about 1 or 2 tbsp bacon fat.  
5. Cook the pasta in salted water until al dente, according to the package instructions.  Drain, reserving ~1/2 cup of the pasta water, and set aside.   
6. Once the onions are browned, deglaze the pan with wine/broth blend. 
7. Add the roasted acorn squash and fresh herbs; heat through.  
8. Add the pasta to the squash. 
9. Add crumbled bacon and Parmesan cheese to the pasta and squash.  Add a bit of the pasta water to make a light sauce.  Mix.

In my opinion, bacon makes almost everything better, and this dish really benefits from its subtle smokey flavor.  This, combined with the sweetness of the shallots, the brightness of the thyme, and the richness of the Parmesan, make for a elegant and sophisticated dish.  And it really sings served with an off-dry white wine.   Bon appétit!

Baked Acorn Squash with Brown Sugar

Who can resist a sweet, warm, roasted acorn squash on a cool fall night?  I certainly can't.  Thankfully, this recipe from Martha Stewart couldn't be more simple.

First, cut the squash in half from end to end, scoop out the seeds, and roast the squash at 425 degrees F, cut side down, on a buttered baking sheet for 25 min.  Flip, add a pat of butter, ~1 Tbsp raw sugar, and a dash of nutmeg.  Roast for another 25 min.  You're done.  Baste before serving.  If you've never tried baking acorn squash, you no longer have an excuse! 

This squash is a good source of vitamin C, vitamin A, thiamin, and dietary fiber.  And hey, you can even eat the skin.  Serve with baked chicken and a light salad of mixed greens for an easy meal.

Sautéed German Sausages with Bacon and Apple Sauerkraut

Sunday dinner is a longstanding tradition in my family, and it's one that I enjoy carrying on.  Growing up, this was a time for my family to sit down to our favorite familiar meals (steak and potatoes, grilled salmon with fresh corn on the cob, tuna casserole, roast beef...), but in my hands Sunday dinner has become a time for exploration, experimentation, and expanding horizons.  Following last week's delicious sausage and apple dish, I wanted to try another similar recipe but with a slightly different twist.  I came across this lovely little creation published by Food & Wine, Sautéed German Sausages with Bacon and Apple Sauerkraut, contributed by Stanley Lobel.  From the sound of it, this dish offered just the combination of flavors I was looking for -- a mix of tart, sweet, richness.

So off to the market I went.  First stop -- my local farmers market.  About a month ago, I was surprised to find this little gem of a market being held just around the corner from my apartment.  Prior to this I had been trekking down to the quintessential Union Square Market late on Saturday mornings, all the while overlooking this beautiful little market sitting right here under my nose.  Not only is this market local, but it's also held on Sundays, setting the stage perfectly for a bountiful Sunday dinner.  For this recipe, I needed Fuji or Gala apples (which hold up nicely even after sauteing) and the market had an abundance of both.

I knew just the place to go for my bratwurst -- Schaller & Weber.  This butcher is one of the best in the city; they have fresh bratwursts, weisswurst, knackwurst, cheddar brats, Polish kolbase, Hungarian kolbase, mustard, and sauerkraut.  Unfortunately, I arrived to find that they are closed on Sundays, but I was able to find some of their pre-packaged bratwurst at the supermarket.

This recipe is meant to serve 6-8, so I cut it in half.  All in all, it was quite easy to prepare.  The onions are sauteed in bacon fat, and cooked down further in a little liquid (wine, water) with apples, sauerkraut, and juniper berries.  I doubled the amount of apples, and added some apple cider to balance out the sourness of the sauerkraut, which was a bit too overpowering.  The recipe calls for the brats to be cooked in a skillet with some oil, but once they were browned I decided to add them to the sauerkraut mixture to meld the flavors.  Lastly, I added a pat of butter to soften the sauce, since I had cut back on the bacon initially.

Another great fall recipe.  This dish pairs well with Riesling, and even better with a bit of hard cider, preferably one with a hint of sweetness to it, such as Rustica by Eve's Cidery.  If you prefer a Riesling, Lobel suggests the appley 2003 Pfeffingen Pfeffo or the minerally 2003 S.A. Prüm Blue Slate.

The leftovers make a great bag lunch.  Just be sure to remember the mustard!

The Affordable Art Fair, Banksy, and the High Line

I had been waiting months for the Affordable Art Fair to arrive in the city, and finally the day was here!

Their opening gala was on Wednesday night.  And interestingly, the art fair coincided with the opening days of Banksy's month-long show on the streets of NYC.  Banksy is a well-known, but still anonymous, graffiti artist/political activist from England who has been on the scene since the 1990s.  His pieces sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars.  Banksy's works are at times mildly subversive, but also a bit cheeky, and he is after all an artist.  So I had to wonder if it was merely a coincidence that the second piece in his show appeared the morning after the opening gala of the art fair, only a block or so away from the venue where the gala/fair was being held.  You see, because Banksy's art is (technically) illegal, in that it is (technically) graffiti, he creates each piece in the middle of the night and it's not found until the next morning when all of NY (well not all of NY) runs around in a frenzy trying to find its location, aided by hints provided by Banksy on his website and Twitter.  So, the timeline here is very curious... on the same night that the art fair held its opening gala, Banksy was also in the area creating the second installation of his show.  Coincidence?  How far of a stretch would it be to imagine Banksy at the gala, or perhaps even involved in the fair in a more official capacity?  (Every anonymous graffiti artist needs a proper cover.)  Or... was this second piece just a strategically well-positioned work aimed at maximizing his visibility, given its proximity to the art fair, Chelsea galleries, and the High Line?  Will we ever know?  Will we ever solve this mystery?

Well, either way, I was eager to see Banksy's second installation.  It's a playful piece that reads, "This is my New York accent... normally I write like this." It uses a style of tagging that originated in NYC in the 1970s and has since spread throughout the world.  Many New Yorkers appreciated Banksy's nod to local culture, especially so early on in his month-long residency.  I've even heard some people go so far as to say the piece is iconic.

Perhaps Banksy was hoping the work would be better received than his initial piece, and left untouched, due to this gesture, but no such luck...  It was defaced quite quickly, which is de rigueur for this type of work, and sadly, by the time I viewed it on Saturday you could barely make out the original writing.

From Banksy I moved on to the art fair... and in 3 words, it was wonderful.  The objective of the fair, which has been holding shows since 1999, is to gather a number of galleries, locally and from around the world, in one place and to offer the best of their collections to the public.  I just love the idea of bringing art to the people, and at a price that many people can afford -- there were several pieces under $50, but of course they also had absolutely wonderfully breathtakingly beautiful pieces for up to $10,000.  The fair showcased many types of art, including ceramics, photography, sculpture, painting, and print making.  But the highlight of the event was that many of the artists whose works were on display were also present at the show.  It's really quite amazing to be able to talk to the artists in person about their work, their process, their inspiration, their interpretation of their pieces, and what they like best about their work.  Some lucky viewers were also able to watch a few artists create their pieces as part of the show, which were then sold at the fair.  It was all very exciting. 

 

I was so taken by it all that I purchased a small print by Chad Kouri on the spot.  Of course this was only after I asked him to give me his opinion about which print he liked best.  Fortunately, our thoughts were aligned on this matter!

There was only one way to close out the evening's events, and that was with a stroll on the High Line.  This was the perfect setting to reflect on art, what it is, who creates it, where we find it (on the streets, in the galleries, in the parks, in the skylines of our cities), and why we need it.  The night felt like it was plucked from late summer, with its damp humid air and temperatures in the low 70s.  What a treat it all was.