First, what is the Michelin star rating? This is a system of rating restaurants (and hotels) organized by the Michelin tire company. All restaurants receiving stars are listed in the Michelin Guide. The guide uses a three star system in their recommendations. Rankings are determined by professionally-trained Michelin inspectors who remain anonymous (mostly). The now-famed survey began in France in the early 1900s as a sort of atlas offered to tire customers with the hope that the listings would inspire interest in travel and spur tire sales. The Michelin Guide has published ratings for US restaurants since 2006, but ratings are reserved for only a few US cities, which have included NYC, LA, Chicago, Las Vegas, and San Francisco. A one star rating indicates that a restaurant is "very good... in its category, offering cuisine prepared to a consistently high standard. A good place to stop on your journey." Two stars suggest the restaurant offers "excellent cuisine, skillfully and carefully crafted dishes of outstanding quality. Worth a detour." And three stars indicates that the restaurant provides "exceptional cuisine where diners eat extremely well, often superbly. Distinctive dishes are precisely executed, using superlative ingredients. Worth a special journey." These descriptors make clear why so few stars are awarded. According to Forbes, since 2006 Michelin has given stars to just 126 of the city's thousands of restaurants. There is an additional ranking, called Bib Gourmand, which is awarded to more affordable restaurants (i.e., those offering two courses and a glass of wine or dessert for $40 or less) noted as being "Favorites for Good Value" by Michelin inspectors. A list of NYC's Bib Gourmand restaurants can be found here. Gaining a Michelin Star is quite an honor (but not everyone agrees with this statement). Interestingly, trends in the types of restaurants that receive stars have changed a great deal in NY since the first stars were awarded in 2006. For example, restaurants serving French food no longer dominate the list, and although restaurants serving American food still reign, a greater variety of cuisines are now represented.
The NoMad (one star) is a relatively new, classic-style NYC restaurant, serving American food. The restaurant and the adjoining bar opened in 2012. We ate at The NoMad Bar, which may or may not share the same kitchen as the Michelin starred NoMad. Either way, I assume that since they share the same space, they also share the same quality in food preparation even though the menus do differ. At least their website would seem to suggest this, noting that The NoMad Bar's menu, "is rooted in the style and foundation of The NoMad and Eleven Madison Park." Owner Will Guidara and partner/chef Daniel Humm apparently modeled NoMad's character after the Rolling Stones... who knew. The food and atmosphere were impressive. A bit hip, and very solid (not unlike the Stones). Our waitress told us that the burger (dry-aged, served with red onion and pickles) would ruin us for all others. It was very good, but perhaps because of the waitress's description, we expected something more unique. We also tried the bacon-wrapped hot dog served with black truffles and celery, and the fries served with an herb, lemon, and champagne rémoulade. The cocktails at The NoMad Bar were very good, and we also enjoyed their exceptional non-alcoholic drinks. A return visit is certainly necessary if only to try the chicken pot pie with black truffles and foie gras, which has been receiving much attention of late (see also). Dining at The NoMad proper also seems in order.
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| Burgers and fries at the NoMad Bar. |
Aquavit (two stars) is a sophisticated Scandinavian style restaurant serving wonderfully inventive Nordic-inspired food. The well-known chef, Marcus Samuelsson (of the Red Rooster) made his name here, and even though he is no longer the restaurant's executive chef, the place is still cutting edge delicious. (In fact, this year Aquavit gained a new star, and with this executive chef Emma Bengtsson became the first woman in the city to receive two Michelin stars.) We ordered the tasting menu, and were not disappointed. Tasting menus, now a NY institution for better or worse, offer meals specially curated by the chef, representing the pinnacle of what the restaurant has to offer. They are a fantastic culinary adventure where one is treated to a succession of delights as well as some surprises not appearing on the menu. Needless to say, we left quite satisfied. It would be difficult to identify one dish that stood out, since they were all so uniquely divine. But if pressed, I'd say the Icelandic cod with sugar snap peas was especially good, as was the salad with heirloom tomatoes and green sorrel... the series of desserts were quite delicious too. The service at Aquavit was impeccable -- style and class all the way. And, of course, the aquavit was also very good.
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| Personalized tasting menu at Aquavit. |
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