Pumpkin Spice Latte

I'll admit, I've never tried one of those now all too famous pumpkin spice lattes from Starbucks...  Why, you ask.  Well, a few years ago I bought one of their gingerbread lattes, and I've never forgiven them for it.  It was excessively sweet, without a trace of discernible coffee.  There was nothing latte-like about it.  Yet... there's been so much talk about pumpkin spice (see also) that I thought maybe it might be different... maybe I'd give it a try.  Then I came across a recipe on the kitchn.com that claimed it was even better than Starbucks.  Part experiment, part culinary adventure... with the added bonus that, unlike the Starbucks version, this pumpkin spice latte contained actual pumpkin.  I was in! 

 
Serves 3

Cooking the pumpkin first helps to remove the canned, tinny flavor; it also helps to deepen and enhance the pumkin's flavor.

Adapted from the kitchn.com

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons canned pumpkin 
• 1/2 teaspoon of pumpkin pie spice (you can substitute this with a mix of a healthy 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, a healthy 1/8 teaspoon ginger, and 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg)
• a pinch of ground cardamom
• 2 tablespoons sugar  
• 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 
• 1 1/2 cups 1% milk 
• 3 shots espresso, about 1/3 cup (if you don't have espresso try a very strong coffee)
• sweetened whipped cream (almost optional; try this one in a can)
• cinnamon or pumpkin pie spice for garnish 

Directions:

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat cook the pumpkin with the spice mix for 2 minutes or until it's hot and smells cooked.  Stir it a bit as it cooks. 
2. Add the sugar and stir until the mixture looks smooth.  Careful not to overcook the sugar, it will caramelize and begin to stick.
3. Add the milk and vanilla.  Mix well using a spatula to scrape up any stuck bits if necessary.  Warm gently over medium heat, watching carefully to make sure it doesn't boil over.
4. Blend the mixture with an egg beater (or whisk) until well mixed and a little frothy.
5. Add one shot of espresso each to three mugs and add about 1/2 cup of the pumpkin-milk mixture to each mug.  Top with whipped cream and a sprinkle of pumpkin pie spice, cinnamon, or nutmeg if desired. 

Heat the pumpkin and spices.

Melt the sugar.

Add vanilla and milk.

This is a decadently delicious latte, but one that you can feel comfortable enjoying any day of the week.  It's not too sweet, and it has a wonderful hint of pumpkin (while managing not to taste at all like a candle).  In fact, the flavors are really well balanced, with all of the ingredients complementing rather than overwhelming the espresso -- essential for any latte. 

The original posting recommends that you whip up a batch of the pumpkin-milk mixture ahead of time, store it in the fridge, and use it throughout the week.  I imagine microwaving the mixture a bit just before making your latte would speed things along nicely.  Just don't forget the whipped cream!

And now for the PSA portion of this PSL post.  These lattes are slightly addictive.  If you're at all sensitive to caffeine (or a tad bit lactose intolerant...) this may not be the drink for you.  Because you will want a second cup, maybe even a third, and by that time you will have forgotten right from wrong, left from right, day from night... and nothing else will matter... nothing but the latte.  So please keep your wits about you, and drink responsibly. 

Steak Frites

Steak and potatoes.  So simple and rudimentary, it's almost boring.  But trust me, this is no stodgy meal.  The key to turning an average, everyday dinner into something extraordinary is to add a few delicious accompaniments that might just knock your socks off they are so good.  Start with high-quality ingredients and you will end up with a fantastic dinner  -- proof that alchemy is possible (at least perhaps in the kitchen).  This meal is a take on America's Test Kitchen's Steak Frites, which truly is as they claim, "the steak frites recipe of our Parisian dreams."

Over the years, America's Test Kitchen has reinvented their method of cooking steaks many times over, but none has rivaled the simple process of cooking steaks in a skillet.  They've told us to coat the steaks with 1 part cornstarch, 2 parts salt, freeze them, and then cook them on the grill.  They've recommended that we cook our steaks in a skillet and finish them in the oven.  More recently they say that it's better to reverse this process and start the steaks in the oven (to reach 95 degrees) and then finish them in the skillet (a reprise from previous years).  All of this nonsense in the name of obtaining perfectly cooked steaks risks ruining their credibility.  Which is ridiculous when they were right on the mark with their steak frites recipe in Season 11.... and that recipe couldn't be easier.  Simply cook the steaks in a skillet until they reach ~120 degrees F.  No fuss necessary.  (Of course, recreating the wheel is one of the better ways to produce 14+ seasons of ATK... but clearly, not all reinventions can be winners.)  I'm telling you, America's Test Kitchen's Steak Frites episode is near perfection.  My rendition is simpler but just as good as the original -- I swap out the fries for (ATK-approved) oven roasted potatoes that are crisp and delicious.

America's Test Kitchen recommends that, "Successful steak frites requires careful timing... Once you start cooking the steaks, you need to work quickly to get the steak and [everything else] on the table."  So take note -- you can make the herb butter and vinaigrette the day before or while the potatoes are roasting.  This way everything will be ready once the steaks are done to perfection.

Serves 2

Adapted from America's Test Kitchen's Steak Frites episode.

Side Salad with ATK's Foolproof Vinaigrette
I prepare this vinaigrette in a small jar, which makes quick work of the recipe by eliminating the need to whisk things together.  Also, see this entry from Serious Eats if you are ever curious about how to properly dress your salad. 

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon wine vinegar (red wine, white wine, or champagne vinegar will work)
• ~3 teaspoons finely minced shallots (onion will also work)
• 1/2 teaspoon mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• ~2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
• 1/8 tablespoon salt
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• pinch of sugar (if needed)
• 1 teaspoon vinegar (if needed)
• lettuce greens, washed and spun dry

Directions

1. Combine vinegar, shallots, mayonnaise, mustard and salt in a small jar with a non-reactive lid or in a non-reactive bowl.  (If using a bowl -- whisk together until mixture is milky an no lumps of mayonnaise remain.) 
2. If using a jar to prepare the vinaigrette, add the oil, close tightly with the lid, and shake well until combined.  (If using a bowl -- place olive oil in a small measuring cup so that it is easy to pour.  Whisking constantly, very slowly drizzle oil into the vinegar mixture.  If pools of oil gather on the surface, stop addition of oil and whisk mixture until well combined, then resume whisking in oil in a slow stream.)  Once mixed, the vinaigrette should be glossy and lightly thickened, with no pools of oil on the surface.  
3. Adjust the seasoning to your liking, with a little extra vinegar, sugar, mustard, or salt as needed.  Set dressing aside for immediate use, or store it in the fridge for up to 1 week.
4. Place salad greens in a large bowl and toss with dressing.  Finish the salad with a fresh sprinkle of salt (and pepper if you like).  

Oven Roasted Potatoes

Ingredients

• 4 medium sized Yukon Gold potatoes (~1 lb)
• olive oil
• salt

Directions

1. Cut the potatoes into ~3/4 inch cubes.
2. Toss potatoes with olive oil in a large bowl.  Sprinkle with salt.
3. Place potatoes on a baking sheet and roast at 375 degrees F for about 35-40 minutes.  The bottoms should be beautifully browned when done.

Herb Butter

Ingredients

• 4 tablespoons butter, softened
• 1/2 medium shallot, minced (~2 tablespoons)
• 1 clove garlic, minced (~1 teaspoon)
• ~2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
• ~1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Directions

1. Combine all ingredients in medium bowl.  Set aside. 
2. The herb butter can be stored for up to 1 week, sealed and in the fridge.  Bring to room temperature before use.

Steaks 

Ingredients

• 2 boneless NY strip or rib-eye steaks (~.55 lbs each), steaks should be ~1.5 inches thick
• vegetable oil
• salt
• pepper

Directions

1. Heat vegetable oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until smoking.
2. Meanwhile, season steaks with salt and pepper.  
3. Lay steaks in pan, leaving at least 1/4 inch between them.  Cook, not moving steaks, until well browned, about 3 minutes.  
4. Using tongs, flip steaks and continue to cook about 3 minutes more until instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the steaks reads 120 degrees F for rare to medium-rare.
5. Transfer steaks to warmed plates and top with herb butter.  Let rest a few minutes before serving.

This might sound like a lot of work, but if you time things properly, you can have dinner on the table in under 90 minutes (even less if you prepare the butter and vinaigrette in advance).  And boy is it time well spent!

Serve this meal with a wonderfully rich Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux.  Then... sit down, take a breath, and prepare to eat like a king/queen.  And at night, I can almost promise, you will dream of Paris.

Julia Child's Classic French Omelette

I have admired Julia Child since I was about 4 years old.  To me, Julia reigns as the most influential TV chef in the US, above Martha, above Rachael, above Giada, above Lidia, above all the rest (Mario, etc. etc.).  She was smart, talented, confident, funny, earnest, and opinionated.  And she could make a mean omelette.

I was on a bit of a Julia-inspired omelette kick this past July, and am revisiting them again this fall since they are such a quick, easy, and elegant meal.  (They also require minimal cooking time, which is perfect for the summer... note to future self.)

Julia introduced us to omelettes in her series, The French Chef, many years ago by asking us, enticingly, "How about dinner in half a minute?  How about a last minute dinner party for 300 people?  What about an omelette?!  (Cue the lively theme music for her show.)"  Julia then drew the viewer in by describing this classic dish as one composed of "lovely, and tender, and soft... lightly coagulated eggs with a little cloak around holding them together...  It's perfect as a quick meal, that makes a lovely little lunch with a green salad."  I couldn't agree more.

Julia tells us that all you need to make an omelette is a hot fire, a bowl, some butter, some salt and pepper, and some eggs.  And, of course, you must have the right kind of pan.  This is so you can move the pan and eggs around quickly to form the omelette as it cooks.  Julia notes that she likes to cook her omelette in "a plain old no-stick pan" that has sides that are about 2-inches high, with about a 7-inch diameter, and a handle that you can hold on to when manipulating the pan to form the omelette.  (You move the pan around like you do when making Jiffy Pop on the stove.)  Despite helping to create a line of beautiful, high-end, specially-designed omelette pans, Julia claims that the best pan to have is one you can use for everything, so "you don't have to keep it only for omelettes.  If you get one of those fancy pans you really can't use it for anything else at all because it will ruin it."  Good to note.

She goes on to tell us that the omelette should be cooked on a high flame.  (Thank you Julia, I've always heard that eggs should be cooked slowly.)  Just 20 seconds, she says, makes the perfect omelette.  She also tells us that, "the best and the tenderest [omelette] is made out of 2 to 3 eggs."  More makes a "leathery" omelette.  Well, no one wants that!  Julia also notes in, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, that the center of the omelette should remain soft and creamy.  Indeed.

the Rolled Omelette -- a classic

L'Omelette Roulee (Rolled Omelette)

Servings: 1

Ingredients:

• 2 (or 3) eggs
• 1 teaspoon water
• salt, to taste
• freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 1 tablespoon butter
• chopped parsley

Directions (as per Julia):

1. Mix the eggs with water, salt, and freshly ground pepper.  Whisk or mix just enough to blend the whites and yolks thoroughly.  
2. Add a good tablespoon of butter to a hot pan.  Coat the pan entirely with the butter.  Use high heat.  You will know the pan is ready when the butter foams up and the foam then comes down.
3. Just before the butter begins to brown, add the eggs, which should sizzle as they hit the pan.  
4. Wait for about 2 or 3 seconds as the eggs coagulate, then swirl the pan flat around the heat for a few seconds.  Then gradually jerk the pan towards you to form the omelette, which should turn over on itself in the far end of the pan.  
5. Turn the pan around to flip the omelette over and out onto a warm plate.  If the shape is off, use two forks (or the sides of your hands if no one is watching) to push it together and form it up properly.
6. Butter the top if you like (to make it shiny), and dress the omelette with parsley and salt.  Serves 1.

Dry ingredients can be mixed into the eggs, Julia tells us, as in:

Omelette aux Fines Herbes (Omelette with Herbs)

1. Add some herbs to the eggs.  You can choose from a mixture of parsley, chives, scallions, or shallots.  Or from a mixture of tarragon, chives, chervil or anything you have that is in season.  I especially like a combination of parsley and chives.
2. Cook as directed above; dress with parsley and salt.  Serves 1.

Wet ingredients should be used to make a filled omelette, as in:

Omelette aux Lardons et aux Pomme de Terre (Omelette with Bacon and Potatoes)

1. Saute some bacon (~1 tablespoon cooked) and diced boiled & peeled potatoes (~ 1/4 cup), with some scallions (~1 tablespoon, chopped), and some ground pepper.  Brown nicely.  Keep warm.
2. Make omelette, using the standard recipe above, in a separate pan. 
3. When the eggs coagulate and you've swirled the pan a bit (cooking the eggs about 8 seconds or so), add the bacon and potato mixture on top of the omelette.  The mixture should form a long heap extending from left to right.
4. Jerk the pan back and forth towards you to create a cloak of eggs around the filling.  
5. Turn the omelette out onto a warm plate (correcting the form if needed).  Butter the top, and dress with parsley and salt.  Serves 2.

Omelette au Fromage (Omelette with Cheese)

1. Grate a bit of Swiss or Parmesan cheese (1 to 2 tablespoons, grated)
2. Make omelette, using the standard recipe above. 
3. When the eggs coagulate and you've swirled the pan a bit (cooking the eggs about 3 seconds or so), sprinkle the eggs with the grated cheese. 
4. Finish cooking the omelette as noted above; plate. 
5. If you wish, sprinkle the platted omelette with more cheese (making sure the plate is broiler-proof), dot with butter, and broil until the cheese is melted and browned.  Serves 1.

There are so many variations on this theme (for example).  Julia recommended the following books for inspiration, tips, and ideas:  The Art of Cooking Omelettes by Madame Romaine De Lyon, and The Omelette Book by Narcissa Chamberlain.  Then of course, there's Julia herself.  I highly recommend looking for an online video (perhaps on YouTube) of the episode titled, "The Omelette Show" from her PBS series The French Chef.  It's wonderful viewing, and it offers the novice omelette maker a good sense of how to move the pan when cooking an omelette.  There's also a wealth of information in her cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. 

So now you have no excuse for not making dinner tonight.  All you need is 2 or 3 eggs, and some 20 seconds or so later, voilà fini, you're done.  Simple.  Add to this if you like some fresh greens, dressed with a little vinegar, olive oil, and salt (or use the delicious vinaigrette recipe included in this post) for a lovely light dinner.  Refined and elegant, just like Julia.   And don't forget the wine -- this is French cooking afterall!  I hear a dry Alsatian Chablis can be a nice pairing, but if this is not your style, a bit of leftover champagne is always a solid choice.  And for an omelette aux fines herbes, some recommendations include an Alsatian Riesling.  Bon appétit!

Savory Oatmeal with Blue Cheese and Caramelized Red Onions

Savory oatmeal... At first blush this sounds odd, right?  Since it's now fall, perhaps the idea might be a bit more appealing, if only slightly.  But trust me on this one, savory oatmeal is delicious.  And I'm not the only one who's jumped on this bandwagon... There are lots of recipes out there for savory oatmeal (for example), including some touted by the wonderful Mark Bittman (see also this entry from Serious Eats).

To plunge into this world of savory oatmeal, one must see oatmeal for the grain that it is, and not be confined by thoughts of one's childhood days sitting over a steaming mound of sweet, buttery oatmeal looking out onto the snow.  Instead you should think of savory oatmeal the way you do risotto, because that's what this recipe is closest to... but in some ways this dish is even better, because what this savory oatmeal promises is a delicious quick bowl of creamy, cheesy, grainy, savory goodness.

This dish can be served for brunch, lunch, or as a side for dinner.  It's also a great recipe for when you're looking to just throw something together quickly, but still want something rich and flavorful. 

 
Servings: 2 (sides) or 1 (very filling meal)

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats (not instant or quick cooking)
• 3/4 cup water
• 1/4 cup milk (1%)
• 1 sprig of thyme
• 1/4 small red onion, diced
• a pat of butter, for browning
• ~1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons blue cheese (preferably Stilton), to your taste
• ~1 tablespoon of grated cheese (1/2 Pecorino Romano, 1/2 Grana Padano)
• salt, to taste
• pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. In a sauté pan, heat onions in butter until nicely browned.
2. While the onions are cooking, add oats, water, and milk to a small saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Add thyme leaves. Stir. Continue cooking at a slow boil for about 3 minutes.
3. Add cheeses to the oats; mix. Keep the heat low to allow the cheese to melt.
4. Add onions to the oats; mix.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Serve.

With the addition of the three cheeses, this dish can be on the salty side, so be careful not to over-season it.  But the saltiness is balanced nicely by the sweetness of the onions and the earthiness of the thyme.

Clearly this oatmeal recipe is not one your cardiologist might approve of, but I will suggest that you try it nonetheless.  And if not, perhaps one of the other savory oatmeal dishes will pique your interest... Perhaps Mark Bittman's simpler oatmeal with scallions and soy sauce recipe is an easier jaunt into the world of savory oatmeal.  I suggest adding a little ginger powder to Bittman's recipe to round out the flavors.  He's also modified this recipe by adding some sesame oil, or swapping out the scallions for celery.  But whatever your taste preferences, oatmeal is a wonderful pallet to build upon. Seriously, there are so many options.  The sky's the limit.  So, cook, eat, and enjoy!

Cacio e Pepe Oatmeal with steel-cut oats, toasted ground peppercorns,
and peppercorn cheddar cheese from the farmers market.

Recipe Extra: Cacio e Pepe Oatmeal is made with 1 1/2 cups water, 1/2 cup steel-cut oats, ~1 1/2 tablespoons freshly ground pepper toasted in ~1 tablespoon olive oil, 3 to 4 tablespoons of cheese (I used a blend of peppercorn cheddar cheese, Grana Padano, and Pecorino Romano cut in chunks), and salt to taste. Cook oats in boiling water for about 20 mins. Toast peppercorns in oil. When oats are done, add oil, peppercorns, and cheese. Mix well and salt to taste. Serves 2.

September Celebrations, Michelin Starred Restaurants

NYC is a premier gastronomic city, made even more interesting by the close proximity of numerous Michelin starred restaurants.  This month I happened to visit not just one, but two Michelin rated establishments, The NoMad and Aquavit, while celebrating various events with friends.  What a treat!

First, what is the Michelin star rating?  This is a system of rating restaurants (and hotels) organized by the Michelin tire company.  All restaurants receiving stars are listed in the Michelin Guide.  The guide uses a three star system in their recommendations.  Rankings are determined by professionally-trained Michelin inspectors who remain anonymous (mostly).  The now-famed survey began in France in the early 1900s as a sort of atlas offered to tire customers with the hope that the listings would inspire interest in travel and spur tire sales.  The Michelin Guide has published ratings for US restaurants since 2006, but ratings are reserved for only a few US cities, which have included NYC, LA, Chicago, Las Vegas, and San Francisco.  A one star rating indicates that a restaurant is "very good... in its category, offering cuisine prepared to a consistently high standard. A good place to stop on your journey."  Two stars suggest the restaurant offers "excellent cuisine, skillfully and carefully crafted dishes of outstanding quality. Worth a detour."  And three stars indicates that the restaurant provides "exceptional cuisine where diners eat extremely well, often superbly. Distinctive dishes are precisely executed, using superlative ingredients. Worth a special journey."  These descriptors make clear why so few stars are awarded.  According to Forbes, since 2006 Michelin has given stars to just 126 of the city's thousands of restaurants.  There is an additional ranking, called Bib Gourmand, which is awarded to more affordable restaurants (i.e., those offering two courses and a glass of wine or dessert for $40 or less) noted as being "Favorites for Good Value" by Michelin inspectors.  A list of NYC's Bib Gourmand restaurants can be found here.  Gaining a Michelin Star is quite an honor (but not everyone agrees with this statement).  Interestingly, trends in the types of restaurants that receive stars have changed a great deal in NY since the first stars were awarded in 2006.  For example, restaurants serving French food no longer dominate the list, and although restaurants serving American food still reign, a greater variety of cuisines are now represented.

The NoMad (one star) is a relatively new, classic-style NYC restaurant, serving American food.  The restaurant and the adjoining bar opened in 2012.  We ate at The NoMad Bar, which may or may not share the same kitchen as the Michelin starred NoMad.  Either way, I assume that since they share the same space, they also share the same quality in food preparation even though the menus do differ.  At least their website would seem to suggest this, noting that The NoMad Bar's menu, "is rooted in the style and foundation of The NoMad and Eleven Madison Park."  Owner Will Guidara and partner/chef Daniel Humm apparently modeled NoMad's character after the Rolling Stones... who knew.  The food and atmosphere were impressive.  A bit hip, and very solid (not unlike the Stones).  Our waitress told us that the burger (dry-aged, served with red onion and pickles) would ruin us for all others.  It was very good, but perhaps because of the waitress's description, we expected something more unique.  We also tried the bacon-wrapped hot dog served with black truffles and celery, and the fries served with an herb, lemon, and champagne rémoulade.  The cocktails at The NoMad Bar were very good, and we also enjoyed their exceptional non-alcoholic drinks.  A return visit is certainly necessary if only to try the chicken pot pie with black truffles and foie gras, which has been receiving much attention of late (see also).  Dining at The NoMad proper also seems in order.

Burgers and fries at the NoMad Bar.

Aquavit (two stars) is a sophisticated Scandinavian style restaurant serving wonderfully inventive Nordic-inspired food.  The well-known chef, Marcus Samuelsson (of the Red Rooster) made his name here, and even though he is no longer the restaurant's executive chef, the place is still cutting edge delicious.  (In fact, this year Aquavit gained a new star, and with this executive chef Emma Bengtsson became the first woman in the city to receive two Michelin stars.)  We ordered the tasting menu, and were not disappointed.  Tasting menus, now a NY institution for better or worse, offer meals specially curated by the chef, representing the pinnacle of what the restaurant has to offer.  They are a fantastic culinary adventure where one is treated to a succession of delights as well as some surprises not appearing on the menu.  Needless to say, we left quite satisfied.  It would be difficult to identify one dish that stood out, since they were all so uniquely divine.  But if pressed, I'd say the Icelandic cod with sugar snap peas was especially good, as was the salad with heirloom tomatoes and green sorrel... the series of desserts were quite delicious too.  The service at Aquavit was impeccable -- style and class all the way.  And, of course, the aquavit was also very good.

Personalized tasting menu at Aquavit.

Limoncello

I've always wanted to make limoncello, especially since learning that Italians speak so casually about the process.  I'd hear people say that it involved no more than a simple bit of mixing lemons with sugar and some alcohol, and just letting it sit until the time is right, and presto you have limoncello.  So simple.  Wasn't I surprised to find out that it actually is this simple!  Well, almost.

Here's the process: wash and peel some organic lemons, steep the peels in alcohol for a month, add some simple syrup, let it sit a few more days more, and freeze.  Presto!  Limoncello.  I followed the recipe offered by America's Test Kitchen very closely.  The result was pretty good.  And what fun it was!  Homemade limoncello, at last!  Apparently the same recipe can be followed using orange peels (to make "orangecello"), grapefruit peels, etc.  Perhaps I'll try that next.  These pretty little bottles of limoncello make wonderful gifts.  But I wouldn't argue with you if you decided to keep them all for sharing with guests at home.  It can be quite impressive when you offer your dinner guests a bit of homemade limoncello as an after dinner digestivo.  And it leads to some very good conversation as well!

An important note about the lemons: Be sure to buy organic lemons for this recipe, since you want to consume as little pesticides as possible with your limoncello.  When the peels steep in the alcohol, any chemicals on the peels are drawn out and end up in the alcohol.  (Alcohol is a solvent, afterall.)  For the same reason, you're going to want to scrub the lemons well, to remove anything that might be stuck to the peel.  Also, America's Test Kitchen recommends using regular lemons, as they suggest that Meyer lemons are a bit too floral in flavor.

Lastly, what to do with all those leftover lemons?  Well, make fresh lemonade of course!  To save on space, I made a lemonade that was very concentrated; I added water by the glass (to suit individual tastes) when serving.  Some folks liked it straight, others preferred it watered down.  It was perfect!

Makes: 5 1/2 cups (~1.3 liters) of limoncello

Ingredients:

• 1 (750-ml) bottle 100-proof vodka
• 8-10 organic lemons (~2 lbs), scrubbed well
• 1 1/2 cups water
• 1 cup sugar

Directions: 

1. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest from lemons in long strips.  Use a paring knife to remove any of the pith from the zest.  (The pith will add too much bitterness.)
2. Combine the zest and vodka in large non-reactive container (with ~ 1 liter capacity), cover with a lid, and let the mixture steep in a cool, dark place for 28 days.  The full 28 days (give or take a day or 2) is necessary to give the best lemon flavor.  Some say that you should store the mixture away from light to keep the peels from darkening.
3. Strain the infusion through a mesh strainer into large liquid measuring cup (at least a 4 cup volume is needed), pressing on the zests with a wooden spoon to extract as much liquid as possible.  (Using a liquid measuring cup or a bowl with a pour spout will aid in dispensing the limoncello into bottles.)  Discard the zests. 
4. Combine water and sugar in a small saucepan.  Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is completely dissolved, about 2 minutes.  Let cool.
5. Add 1 3/4 cups of syrup to the infused vodka, adjusting the amount as desired.  Swirl to combine.
6. Transfer the limoncello to a bottle(s) with a tight-fitting lid.  (I used 1-17 ounce bottle, and 2-8.5 ounce bottles, and had just a bit left over.)  Let the limoncello mellow for 5 days in a  cool, dark place. 
7. Transfer the limoncello to the freezer.  Serve the limoncello cold from freezer.

The zesting process begins!

Removing the pith.

Ready to be stored.

Close-up, day 0.

30 days later!

Straining the zests.

Pre simple syrup.

Post simple syrup.

Bottled!

Summertime sharing.

Limoncello is embarrassingly easy to make -- all you need is patience.  And it's delicious.  Once you master one limoncello recipe, you might want to try others.  For example, one recipe is making quite a stir in Brooklyn and around the web; it involves suspending a lemon above some vodka for several weeks, letting the alcohol vapors leach the essential oils from the lemon... wow!  Other recipes suggest that you can add herbs, spices, or other fruits to the mixture, at different times during the steeping process and for different steeping durations, to create a more complex flavor. 

In the US, lemons are in season during the winter, but limoncello is best enjoyed on a warm summer night.  That's not to say that limoncello isn't wonderful any time of year.  In fact, I've been told that one sip can bring you back to those lazy summer evenings in a flash...  So go ahead and enjoy, all year long.  Summer's waiting!

Uptown Showdown and Homemade Pancakes

Symphony Space on the Upper West Side is a fantastic performing arts centers and, in my opinion, a very special place.  It's home to many unique cultural events including musical and dance performances, independent films, broadcasts of international theater productions, the popular short story performances Selected Shorts, and the fantastic debate-style comedy series Uptown Showdown. 

Uptown Showdown describes itself with the following: "Two teams of comedians, writers and performers square off in head-to-head debates that tackle some of the most important issues of our time, such as which decade was the coolest—the eighties or the nineties, is cake really better than pie and who would win in a showdown pirates or ninjas? Forget about school reform and health care, these issues, heatedly argued by some of the funniest, smartest, intensely wacky creative thinkers around, are the topics that keep us awake at night."

The topic for the showdown I attended was breakfast vs. dinner, and was it funny!  The show adheres to a familiar debate format: the audience hears arguments from 2 teams, with 3 members each, and then votes (by cheering) for the best team, and a winner is declared.  Debating for breakfast were writer/comedians Sheng Wang, Michelle Buteau, and Brooks Wheelan (recently of SNL); and for dinner Dave Hill, Jen Kirkman (author and comedian), and Joe DeRosa; the show was hosted by Kevin Townley.  Although the dinner team was a bit funnier, it seems breakfast may have won based on style and overall pizazz.  You can see videos from four of the best debaters below, or click on the links to see Sheng Wang's performance, Jen Kirkman's performance, Michelle Buteau's performance, and Joe DeRosa's performance.  

So, what does one do after such an entertaining evening out?  One discusses the highs and lows of the show and the merits of breakfast and dinner, while taking in the warm night air and enjoying a long walk home... where one promptly proceeds to make pancakes and bacon in honor of the winning team's victory -- of course!  I don't have the exact recipe we used for the pancakes that night, but leave it to Martha Stewart to offer one that is reasonably close and quite good, as adapted below.

Uptown Pancakes

Ingredients:

• 1 cup + 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt (optional)
• 1 cup milk (1% milk fat)
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted (or vegetable oil)
• 1 large egg
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• maple syrup

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees; have a baking sheet or heatproof platter ready to keep cooked pancakes warm in the oven.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt; set aside.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together milk, butter (or oil), and egg. 
4. Add dry ingredients to milk mixture; whisk until just moistened (do not over-mix; a few small lumps are fine).
5. Heat a large skillet (nonstick or cast-iron) or griddle over medium.  Add butter or oil to the pan.  (I prefer butter.)  If using oil, fold a sheet of paper towel in half, and moisten with oil; carefully rub skillet with oiled paper towel.
6. For each pancake, spoon 2 to 3 tablespoons of batter onto skillet, using the back of the spoon to spread batter into a round (you should be able to fit 2 to 3 in a large skillet).
7. Cook until surface of pancakes have some bubbles and a few have burst. Flip carefully with a thin spatula, and cook until browned on the underside, a few minutes more. 
8. Transfer to a baking sheet or platter; cover loosely with aluminum foil, and keep warm in oven. 
9. Continue with more oil and remaining batter. (Martha's original recipe indicates that you'll have 12 to 15 pancakes, but I usually have about 7 or so.) Serve warm, with maple syrup, or (blueberry) jam, or both. 

the batter

in the skillet

in the plate

Happy 4th!

NYC puts on a number of fireworks displays, throughout the city every year, leading up to the big display on the 4th.  The shows start in late June and actually run through August.  Catching them is a spectacular event every year.

Happy 4th!

2013's display over the East River

Kara Walker's "A Subtlety"

There has been a lot of talk recently about Kara Walker's new exhibit in Brooklyn, called "A Subtlety."  Actually, the official title of the piece is, "A Subtlety, or the Marvelous Sugar Baby an Homage to the unpaid and overworked Artisans who have refined our Sweet tastes from the cane fields to the Kitchens of the New World on the Occasion of the demolition of the Domino Sugar Refining Plant." But in a word (or two), I'd call it simply astounding.  The work comments broadly on race (and specifically on African Americans' experiences in America/the Caribbean).  It speaks to history near and far, and plays with contrasts of color, scale, and thought.  It also intertwines olfactory experience with artistic concept in a way that I haven't seen before: the mesmerizingly sweet smell of molasses in the air somehow envelops, but also clashes against, the harsh acidity of the work's content matter.

As with all works of art, the viewer has the choice of interacting with its subject on a very superficial or meaningful level.  This is a very rich, multilayered piece of work that contains a great deal of symbolism, some of it subtle, some of it overt.  Not surprising, given the weight (and presentation) of the subject matter considered here, there has been some controversy surrounding people's responses to the exhibit (some Instagram photos, for example).  In a pointed critique, Dr. Nicholas Powers, Associate Professor of English at SUNY Westbury, suggested that, in their interactions with the piece, many visitors were (consciously or unconsciously), "...recreating the very racism this art is supposed to critique."

"questionable acts" were demonstrated by staff members as well.

It's really amazing living in a city in which we are all constantly coming together (on the subway, in the market, at the park, at art exhibits, etc.).  At the same time, it's disappointing to be reminded that we remain a divided community in many ways, and that these divisions are based in part on race, which often leads to very different experiences as we move throughout the city and life.  But this is not, nor should it be, the sole focus of this installation, which is truly monumental in scale and concept.  "A Subtlety" is a very complex piece of art that requires much thought and introspection.  With this work, Kara Walker has offered the viewer an opportunity to learn more about themselves, history, and society.  I've visited the installation twice; I was and continue to be very moved.

For more information about this piece, I recommend:

NPR interview
NY Times article
New Yorker article
a piece about the experience of African Americans who have visited the work
an interview with Kara Walker by ArtNet

... and a truly wonderful (and informative) video from a live broadcast interview with Kara Walker that is available from the NY Public Library.

Mushroom and Mozzarella Toasts

The weather is lovely this time of year in NY.  The evenings are still cool enough to enjoy some al fresco dining.  I'm lucky enough to have a rooftop patio at my apartment, and for some reason I don't take advantage of it enough.  So, last week, I decided to invite a couple of friends over to enjoy the weather, along with some delightful company and conversation.  On their arrival my friends informed me that we would be doing some cooking before heading out to the patio, and I quickly obliged!

They brought with them some mushrooms, fresh mozzarella, and toasted bread to prepare a delightful little dish, which was absolutely divine.  The recipe is apparently a favorite of my friend and her beau, who is from Naples.  I'm told they make these toasts at least once a week.  I've prepared this dish several times in the past week or so, and it never fails to satisfy.  It's a quick easy recipe that requires minimal cooking, perfect for the summer months.  Admittedly, my version is a play on the original recipe from my friend's Napoletano boyfriend.  The original uses fresh bread that is toasted, instead of prepackaged toasts.  I've made a few other minor changes as well, to accommodate my preferences and cooking style.  Adapt accordingly, I say!

 
Ingredients:

• 2 cloves of garlic, crushed (leave whole if you prefer to remove the garlic from the dish)
• 1 to 2 teaspoons of tomato paste (for example, Amore, but canned is also good)
• olive oil
• 2 handfuls of cremini mushrooms, tops halved then sliced, stalks trimmed and diced
• salt
• a dash of red pepper flakes (optional)
• parsley, chopped
• 1 ball of fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced (I prefer a reduced fat option produced locally, sold by Gourmet Garage) 
• toasted bread, anywhere from 2 to 6 slices depending on their size (I've developed a fondness for this toast by Sophia but fresh toasts are also fine)
• mayonnaise

Directions:

1. In a medium (non-stick) skillet, heat the garlic and tomato paste in a generous amount of olive oil. Cook until the garlic is slightly golden.
2. Add the mushrooms, and more oil if needed. Cook on a medium flame, stirring occasionally.  Add salt and red pepper flakes to taste.
3. As the mushrooms are cooking, place mozzarella slices on a plate with some olive oil and parsley. Warm the slices in the microwave (~10 sec).
4. If using fresh bread, lightly toast each slice. Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on each toast; place a slice of mozzarella on top.
5. Once the mushrooms have cooked down, add the parsley, stir. Top each toast with a healthy amount of sauteed mushrooms and garnish with more parsley. (Remove the garlic cloves if you left them whole.) Serve.

I simply cannot get enough of these lovely little toasts.  The flavor is indulgent, but the amount of effort involved in preparing them is quite low, which makes the work-to-return ratio hard to beat.  The crispness of the toast compliments the slightly sweet/salty juiciness of the cheese and mushrooms.  Also, I was surprised to find that the mayo is essential, adding a bit of a base to it all, so I wouldn't omit this ingredient, really.

These toasts are great served as appetizers for a party, or on their own as a light summer meal.  The dish pairs nicely with a glass of light to medium bodied red wine.  (Choose a red from Italy to conjure up thoughts of dinning out on the piazza.)  For a more elegant presentation, using freshly toasted bread (a nice country-style loaf, pumpernickel, or any loaf that looks good for a bruschetta) would be perfect; I might also opt for more rustically chopped mushrooms, and would try adding a bit of thyme as well.  Enjoy (on the patio, if you must)!

al fresco dining on the patio

Strawberry and Raspberry Oat Squares

What goes better with summertime than berries?  And what goes better with berries than oatmeal?!  (Well, probably many things, take sweetened cream for instance, but that's neither here nor there!)  Earlier this year, I was so pleased to find the website smitten kitchen -- it's quite a wonderful and adventurous recipe blog.  I highly recommend it.  In May the author wrote about a recipe she created for strawberry rhubarb crisp bars.  I took the idea and ran with it.  And the end result was delicious.  Not really a bar, nor are they really crisp.  But boy are they scrumptious!!

Ingredients:

• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup light brown sugar
• 1/8 teaspoon baking soda
• 6 tablespoons butter, melted
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
• 1 cup raspberries
• 1 cup (or more) strawberries, chopped

Directions:

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees F.  
2. Place oats, flour, brown sugar, and baking soda into an 8-by-8-inch square baking pan (I actually prefer a baking dish that is a little smaller); mix. Pour the melted butter over the dry ingredients, and stir until clumps form.  Set aside 1/2 cup of the crumble mixture.  Press the rest of the crumb mixture evenly in the bottom of the pan to make the crust.
3. In a medium sized bowl, mix the fruit with the cornstarch and sugar.
4. Spread the fruit over the crust.  Sprinkle reserved crumbs over the fruit.
5. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until fruit is bubbly and crisp topping is golden.
6. Let cool in pan at room temperature.  Cut into squares.  Serve.  Store leftover squares in the refrigerator.

I've made these squares several times, sometimes with a mix of berries, sometimes in an 8"x8" pan, sometimes with more flour, and sometimes with less baking soda.  Each time I find I prefer the squares baked in a slightly smaller baking dish (a round dish that is about 7.5" in diameter), with a slightly excessive amount of fruit and the ingredients called for above.  The end result, unlike smitten kitchen's strawberry rhubarb crisp bars, are squares that are soft and rich with fruit.  The oatmeal crust has a consistency somewhere between an oatmeal cookie and a graham cracker crust.  The squares are also luxuriously, splendidly, heavy with fruit.  The original recipe was adapted from one for apple crisp bars, so in addition to making the squares with a mix of fresh berries (blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, etc.), I imagine they might be nice with apples too.  But I like them best with just raspberries and strawberries, since the two really compliment each other well with a mix of tart and sweet flavors. 

This recipe is so simple to prepare, and the squares really are wonderfully delicious.  I love them for breakfast, and even for dessert.  They make a great snack too...  Try them, you'll love them!

Fresh organic berries

The crumb

The crust

Prior to baking

Just out of the oven

Ready to eat

 

Yum

Plum Torte

By all accounts, this is one of the most popular recipes of recent history.  Published first in 1982 in the New York Times, the recipe has been requested (or demanded) yearly by readers every fall.  Its popularity likely stems from its simplicity, and of course from the delicious end result.  It's made with a few basic ingredients and these delicious little Italian plums, which meld into the torte creating a wonderfully gooey plum-cake amalgam.  

I first came across this recipe late last fall, when Italian plum season had just ended.  I waited and waited to make the recipe, having been told that regular purple plums just wouldn't do, until finally another friend assured me that these fancy little Italian plums weren't necessary, and the torte would be just fine (great even) with purple plums.  Hurray!  Springtime plum torte, here we come!

Servings: 8

Ingredients:

• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1 cup unbleached flour, sifted 
• 1 teaspoon baking powder 
• 1/2 cup butter  
• 2 eggs 
• 7 to 12 Italian plums, pitted and halved; or 4 to 5 purple plums, pitted and cut in quarters
• 1 teaspoon (or more to taste) sugar for topping
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice (optional)

Directions:

1. Preheat over to 350°F. 
2. Sift together flour and baking powder in a medium bowl. 
3. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar together with an electric mixer until fluffy and light in color. 
4. Add eggs to butter mixture, one at a time, scraping down the bowl in between.
5. Add dry ingredients to butter mixture; mix just until combined.
6. Butter a 9-inch springform pan; add the batter to the pan and smooth the top. 
7. Arrange the plums, skin side up, all over the batter, covering it almost completely. 
8. Sprinkle the top with sugar and a light coating of cinnamon. Sprinkle with lemon juice.
9. Bake about 45 to 50 minutes until the cake is golden and a toothpick inserted into a center of the cake comes out clean (minus a bit of plum juice). 
10. Let cool on rack, and serve plain or with whipped cream. 

The NY Times article indicates that you can also refrigerate or freeze the torte if you like. To freeze, double-wrap the torte in foil, place in a plastic bag and seal.  To serve a torte that was frozen, defrost and reheat it briefly at 300 degrees F.

Purple plums are beautiful this time of year.

Added a few more plums, sugar, and a bit too much cinnamon.

This torte is fabulous, and I have read (here and elsewhere) that it can be made with a number of fruits, including peaches, blueberries, cherries, even currants.  It was apparently called Fruit Torte, originally.  However, when using the plums (and possibly other fruits as well) it's best if you make the torte a day in advance, to let the fruit, juices, and cake come together creating one lovely union.

This recipe is simple, delicious, and now part of American culinary history (see again, the NY Times article).  As a cook from Tarrytown, NY is reported to have written, "The appearance of the recipe, like the torte itself, is bittersweet... Summer is leaving, fall is coming. That's what [the] annual recipe is all about."  Enjoy (any time of year)!

UPDATE: (Oct 2014) I finally prepared the torte with the Italian plums that the recipe calls for, and I actually think I prefer the regular old purple plums.  The Italian plums I had weren't as sweet as I recall the purple plums to be.  So, this just goes to show you, substitutions in recipes can be a good thing!